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Doing business
If you find yourself in Astana, Kazakhstan’s young capital, you’re probably in the diplomatic, construction or energy sectors. Though most Kazakhs you’re likely to meet will have a thoroughly modern attitude, traditional hierarchies prevail. Expect decisions to be made by one or two key people in the company who may or may not attend meetings and expect gatherings to be relaxed affairs after a formal introduction. You’re also likely to be entertained while there as your contacts seek to get to know you a little better before sealing a deal.

Cool hotel
Astana’s hotel scene is mostly geared towards big business offerings and a boutique revolution still seems to be a few years off. The Hotel Grand Park Esil is classically elegant and has everything you need to conduct business and relax, while the Radisson Astana has excellent 'Business Class' guestrooms.

Hip restaurant
The most inviting place in town is Derevnya Yegorkino (Auezov 93), a riot of heavy timber and rambling greenery. Expect Russian specialities and excellent wine served across two beautifully-decorated floors – or in the garden on warm summer nights. Business associates will be impressed by requests to eat here.

Happening bar
Aside from hotel bars, which are still the best place to seal a deal, Line Brew (Kenesary 20) is an extraordinary place, housed in a red-brick castle-style building with a bustling atmosphere. Food is good here, too.

Must-see sight
Bizarre architectural flights of fancy dominate the Astana skyline: the Transport & Communications Ministry, the Bayterek Tower and the Norman Foster-designed Peace Pyramid are unmissable. Work is also underway on the remarkable Khan Shatyr which, when complete, will be an enormous glass and steel tent-cum-indoor city designed to produce summer temperatures even when winter plunges the air outside to -30C.

Getting downtown
The hour-long journey between Astana International Airport and the city centre is best done by taxi (£8-10)
or private transfer – most hotels in the city can arrange this for you ahead of arrival. The centre of Astana is walkable but taxis will ferry you inexpensively at night
if your hosts don’t assign you a driver.

The details
Astana has only been capital of Kazakhstan since 1997, and government, embassies and business is still trickling in from Almaty, the country’s largest city. The Kazakh government aims to almost double the city’s population by 2030. The Kazak currency is the Tenge, with 236 to the pound. ATMs accepting international cards are widespread, but bring some Euros as a fallback. Sticky in summer and frigid in winter, the extremes of weather means appropriate dress is essential. Business and leisure visitors alike will need to obtain a visa in advance: possible by visiting the embassy in London, but best achieved through a specialist visa company.

Getting there
Astana is seven hours flying time from the UK. Air Astana flies twice-weekly from Heathrow to the former capital, Almaty, with numerous onward connections to Astana. Fares start at £610. Connections are also available through European hubs.

INSIDER’S TIP
“If you want to try the best traditional food, indulge yourself at Restaurant Satti with traditional Kazakh cuisine such as a hearty meat platter, pumpkin-stuffed dumplings or
some fluffy baursak (doughnuts). Be warned – the place gets popular with locals and attracts a lot of visitors too so make a reservation in advance”
Aigul abutalip, kazakhstan sales manager, Air Astana

Compiled by Tom Hall on behalf of Lonely Planet. www.lonelyplanet.com

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